Trying Chhattisgarhi food for the first time in Bilaspur

My experience of Chhattisgarhi cuisine was restricted to a notion of simple dishes before visiting Bilaspur. However, upon my arrival, I found out how wrong I was. In the local markets, I tried many new foods such as steamed snacks, fermented foods, various greens picked from the region, and sweets of unknown origin. Moreover, the market visits became even more exciting when I talked to the people who prepared these foods. Each vendor had information about their food, its preparation, or their family history.

Why the food surprised me in Bilaspur

Chhattisgarhi cuisine is rarely praised and talked about. Before the trip, I expected simple meals of rice and dal. However, the food that I ate had flavours coming from the forest greens, fermented foods, and some other ingredients that I had never tasted before.

My introduction to Bilaspur’s chila and its many forms

Chila here is nothing like the plain besan version I knew. Locals make it with rice batter, sometimes stuffed with lentils or vegetables. I tried one filled with a spiced chana mix from a small stall near the station road. It was soft, slightly tangy, and unlike anything I had eaten before.

The first bite of muthiya in Bilaspur

Muthiya is a steamed dumpling made from rice or wheat flour, mixed with local greens. A woman selling breakfast items near the market gave me my first taste. It came with a light tempering of mustard seeds and curry leaves. Simple as it looked, the flavour stayed with me the whole day.

Discovering Bilaspur’s bafauri at a roadside stall

Bhaipauri is a steamed delicacy that is made of soaked and ground chana dal and prepared as small cakes. I came upon it at a stall that was packed mainly with locals rather than travelling visitors. It was light, mildly spiced, and accompanied by the tangy tamarind chutney.

Choosing hotels in Bilaspur close to the old market

Opting for a nearby hotel near the old market simplified the whole process of food tasting. I chose one of the hotels in Bilaspur that was within walking distance from the main food street. This enabled me to come out for breakfast and rest afterwards, only to return in the evening again.

The forest greens I had never heard of in Bilaspur

Chhattisgarh’s cuisine leans heavily on wild and forest-grown greens, many unique to the region. A small eatery served a curry made with a local leafy green I could not name in English. The taste was earthy, slightly bitter, and completely new to me. It reminded me how much regional food still stays hidden from outsiders.

A quiet lesson in Bilaspur’s fermented flavours

Many Chhattisgarhi meals are based on a slight fermentation, which gives the dish a delicate acidity. I realised it first while eating a type of rice snack served with the broth. Fermentation was mild and added a unique flavour.

Sweet endings in Bilaspur with khurma and thethri

Khurma and thethri are also traditional Chhattisgarhi confectioneries and snacks prepared on certain occasions and festivals. A shopkeeper made me try these sweets as he believed nobody could leave Bilaspur without tasting them. Khurma was a bit sweet and crunchy, while thethri made a pleasant sound.

Talking to Bilaspur’s vendors along the way

Most of what I learned came from vendors themselves, not from any menu card. They explained ingredients patiently, even when my questions were basic. One vendor insisted on describing how his family had made bafauri for three generations. These conversations added more depth to the food than any single dish could.

What I would tell anyone visiting Bilaspur for the food

Most of what I learned about food was not through menus but rather from the vendors themselves. They were gracious in explaining what goes into a dish even when faced with the most basic questions. One of the vendors took this even further by explaining that they have been preparing bafauri for several family generations. 

Final thoughts

Chhattisgarhi food allowed me to become aware of what regional Indian cuisine has to offer. I enjoyed chila, muthiya and bafauri, and each of them introduced me to some interesting cooking techniques and flavours. That experience was particularly interesting because of the greens I had been eating as well. I really appreciated the time spent talking with the vendors about how they prepare this or that dish at home. When I departed, I had this feeling that Bilaspur wasn’t just a place I had visited to eat. Rather, I went through a place full of food traditions which I didn’t know about.